It seems we hear this phrase a lot in the miniature painting world. I’ve even said it myself a time or two. Even more often when we come into a time of year where there are plenty of other distractions to take our attention and time away from modeling and painting. I decided to actually time myself tonight just to see how long it takes to get a combat squad of 5 Space Marines mostly covered in their base coat. I’m kind of cheating since a major color in the paint scheme is black which I’ve painted using black spray paint from orchard supply hardware. Using other colors from the army painter line or using an airbrush you can do a solid basecoat of a single color in about the same amount of time for whatever your color scheme may be. Some automotive parts stores will even mix up a can of spray paint to color-match, which is what people do for painting over scratches on their car.
I purchased this Ork Squiggoth back in 2007 at Gamesday Chicago. I got it out as soon as I got back home to start modeling and playing with it for the casual games with friends. I even picked up the imperial armour update that it was included in at something like $25 for a book for the rules for a single model. Needless to say I was in love with the model, or at least the idea of owning a painted ork squiggoth. Then reality set in and I realized what a beast of a time I was going to have getting the sucker painted up for playing with, so back in the box she went; for six and a half long years.
With the Warhammer 40,000 escalation league starting up, I’ve been working on getting some of my existing minis ready for the league that I anticipate using. The most recent batch you see here are the ork nobz that I assembed some years ago but otherwise have been shelved collecting dust. But the league has given me some motivation to get some orks painted since that will be my primary army for the league, with some imperial guard allies (since they are mostly painted already). I’m going with a deff skull paint theme, which you can see with all the blue cloth. I’m not big on the blue face paint and tattoos since a big part of these models is the green skin, I don’t want to cover it up since that’s what makes an ork. I also like the metal bits to look used and old, which is why I start with a base of warplock bronze followed by a thin layer of ironbreaker, then a wash of the agrax earthshade. The skin I’m still working with establishing a good way to quickly and cleanly get the effect I want, and I’m still resorting to drybrushing on the last layer which I don’t like doing but will stick with for now until I can get a better method that doesn’t involve blending, since I’ve got tons of these boys to get painted for the footslogging army I want.
Stripping paint from your models…wait, what did you think I was going to be talking about? Anyway, sometimes you get a deal on a painted model that you want to strip the paint from because either it’s poorly painted, the paint scheme doesn’t match your army, or any of a hundred different reasons. This leaves you with a dilemma, how do you get the paint off your model without damaging the model and details?
Olde World Games in Elk Grove is hosting a space marine painting competition and as I don’t have a single painted space marine, but intend to start using dark angels as allies, I decided to paint the librarian from the Dark Vengence starter box. Firstly, because it’s a very nicely posed and detailed model, but also it gives me a chance to get outside of my comfort zone and try a few different techniques while painting.
I started with the face because it’s probably the most difficult part to reach on this model, so I wanted to make sure I got it right before doing any other part of the model. The face is generally the first thing a person will look at when they are looking at any model, so it’s important to get it right. After the face I did a base coat on the armor so that the armor could be distinguished from everything else, and also because the armor tends to be tucked in and hard to get to without getting paint on other parts of the model, so a good place to start.