I found a “lost post” from just before my shoulder surgery back in April, 2015. I needed some plague bearers just in case I needed to summon them in a game. I’ll post a full tutorial when I work on the next batch of plague bearers, this is just a quick how-to. I have some older metal models that I need to paint as well.
Having fallen in love with an amazing paint scheme concept- that of a blue hot-rod with orange/yellow flames, I’ve spent the last year or so trying to make it a reality. I’ve finally found my canvas, and it coincides nicely with my desire to take a competitive, but beautiful army to the Las Vegas Open in February 2016. My immediate goal is to have everything basecoated and based for the Know No Mercy Grand Tournament in October, but the ultimate target is the LVO, and perhaps beyond.
I get questions regularly on what hardware I use in my airbrush setup. Below I’ll show you what I use and some alternatives if you want to save a few bucks. I’m linking to various vendors; however, I don’t get any payment for these items, so buy where you’re most convenient.
Air Brush – I have two, and I like the cheaper one better
- Iwata HP-C Plus – this was my first brush. It is better made than my Neo; however, I use the Neo day in and out for the reasons I will explain below.
- Iwata Neo CN – I bought this brush locally on sale for about $40. You can get it on Amazon for under $55, and close to $40 at Dick Blick right now.. This is a great brush that will take you from beginner to experienced intermediate and perhaps beyond.
I’m in the process of re-basing my Dark Angels army with a mix of Secret Weapon Miniatures Urban Rubble and Urban Streets themed resin bases. Prior to this project, I was using cork which apparently is heavily frowned upon in painting competitions. Basing is a bit like cleaning and prepping a model in the sense that doing it well likely won’t win you many accolades, but doing it poorly will degrade from an otherwise nice model. The method I’ve started using is fairly straightforward, but uses a few advanced techniques. The tutorial shown here can easily be modified with traditional washes replacing the oil washes, and the pigment phase can be skipped. Furthermore, many of the airbrush steps can be painted using a traditional brush and simply take a bit longer.
I’m not sure why, but I’ve really been struggling with a paint scheme for my Tyranids. I don’t like to paint models the same as the book models. I like to find my inspiration elsewhere. I keep coming back to one image that really suits the mood and feel I want out of my nids. Here is the lictor that I think exemplifies what I’m after, or at least what I think I’m after..
Ihad been holding off on painting my new plastic Screamers for some time (I actually painted them last September and have been searching for pictures I took ever since). I won two boxes of three at the Nor Cal Team Tournament in Stockton, CA at Heroes on Paper in early 2013. A painting award at Olde World Gaming in Elk Grove in mid 2013 netted me another box of three. I love all my metal screamers for their sleek simplicity, but I also love the detail and ability to customize the new plastic kit. I was able to assemble all nine screamers without any two models having the same options; love it!
They say mimicry is the greatest form of compliment. This tutorial is my slight twist on one already published by Element Games. You can find their tutorial linked just below. The color scheme is the same, the general approach is the same, I’ve just made some slight modifications to technique, order, basing and a few other minor things here and there.