I really like custom resin bases. Well, actually I really like nice custom bases. It’s just that resin bases have a whole bunch of issues. First, most sets of resin bases only have a few different designs, they tend to be short and the bottoms are flat, so they don’t sit on uneven surfaces well. So, I decided to make my own bases. I started with regular 65mm Citadel bases.
Some models really shine when they have unique, custom bases. Today’s tutorial comes to us from a new writer, Anthony Adamo. Anthony is also from Northern California, just about 2 hours from the home base of LUMP. Please let him know that you like his tutorial and he might just write some more. You can find out more about Anthony, and the rest of the writers on our About Page here. Continue reading
Here is a status update shot on Splinter Fleet Syvyys. Syvyys is Fenrisian for abyss, as it was the Space Wolves who first encountered this suspected Leviathan splinter fleet. These lurkers are “tabletop” quality, but far from done. Since I’m trying to get enough models painted to start playing games with my Tyranids I’m painting to this level and then I’ll come back later and finish off the details. To the right you can just make out some of my older Tyranids that I picked up already painted about 3 years ago. They will get the update treatment once I have enough of my new models painted.
I’m in the process of re-basing my Dark Angels army with a mix of Secret Weapon Miniatures Urban Rubble and Urban Streets themed resin bases. Prior to this project, I was using cork which apparently is heavily frowned upon in painting competitions. Basing is a bit like cleaning and prepping a model in the sense that doing it well likely won’t win you many accolades, but doing it poorly will degrade from an otherwise nice model. The method I’ve started using is fairly straightforward, but uses a few advanced techniques. The tutorial shown here can easily be modified with traditional washes replacing the oil washes, and the pigment phase can be skipped. Furthermore, many of the airbrush steps can be painted using a traditional brush and simply take a bit longer.
I’m not a huge fan of large metal models, especially with wings. So, when I decided to finally paint a Fateweaver model (I had proxied my Lord of Change for quite a long while) I opted for the Finecast. Not without problems, but I hoped it would be less prone to breaking.
I purchased this Ork Squiggoth back in 2007 at Gamesday Chicago. I got it out as soon as I got back home to start modeling and playing with it for the casual games with friends. I even picked up the imperial armour update that it was included in at something like $25 for a book for the rules for a single model. Needless to say I was in love with the model, or at least the idea of owning a painted ork squiggoth. Then reality set in and I realized what a beast of a time I was going to have getting the sucker painted up for playing with, so back in the box she went; for six and a half long years.
I just finished a model for a local painting competition this weekend. A face-off of grand design, or least of models in power armor. While there will be plenty of other good entiries, I’m sure, Stephen and I have a side bet running between his Dark Angels Librarian and my Space Wolves Rune Priest. Finishing touches on the model for me included adding snow on the basing.