This coming weekend I will get to use my Daemon Lord of Tzeentch for the second time in the 2.5 years I’ve had it. The first time was an apocalypse game and it was primers white.
When I last posted anything, I had put a simple base coat on the model when IA13 was released and made it unplayable in any games but apocalypse.
actinic lights anyone?
I found a “lost post” from just before my shoulder surgery back in April, 2015. I needed some plague bearers just in case I needed to summon them in a game. I’ll post a full tutorial when I work on the next batch of plague bearers, this is just a quick how-to. I have some older metal models that I need to paint as well.
My latest project has garnered me a lot of positive feedback. I teased a picture of “George” in my army picture a few weeks ago. I’m just getting to the quick and dirty tutorial for those that are interested in the colors and techniques used.
I find that I really enjoy painting larger models. They tend to be both a bit more forgiving technically and easier to work on. Once I “finished” the bloodthirster, I decided to take up a project that had been sitting on my shelf since Christmas of 2013. I’ve already brought the wings into the same color sequence as the body, but forgot to take a picture.
I really like custom resin bases. Well, actually I really like nice custom bases. It’s just that resin bases have a whole bunch of issues. First, most sets of resin bases only have a few different designs, they tend to be short and the bottoms are flat, so they don’t sit on uneven surfaces well. So, I decided to make my own bases. I started with regular 65mm Citadel bases.
There are few skills more valuable than glazing to a serious painter. It can be used to make the smoothest blends imaginable, it can tweak colors, and it can even be used to smooth out layering blends. While there are other methods of blending (such as wet blending, airbrushing, and traditional layering) none seem to offer the same level of precision and versatility that glazing does. The drawback, of course, is that it is potentially a time consuming process. In this tutorial I hope to share some of my techniques and tricks for glazing. A word of caution, this is one of the more difficult techniques to master in my opinion because it is very counter-intuitive to normal painting. Additionally, paint transparency adds a whole new dimension to the paints. Regardless, the time spent learning the process is worth the effort.
So you want to learn to OSL but you don’t have an airbrush, NO PROBLEM! OSL, or the glowy bits, can really make your model pop if it’s done right. It can also turn out horribly wrong. This is my simple three color guide that will have you rocking and glowing in no time.
Here is a status update shot on Splinter Fleet Syvyys. Syvyys is Fenrisian for abyss, as it was the Space Wolves who first encountered this suspected Leviathan splinter fleet. These lurkers are “tabletop” quality, but far from done. Since I’m trying to get enough models painted to start playing games with my Tyranids I’m painting to this level and then I’ll come back later and finish off the details. To the right you can just make out some of my older Tyranids that I picked up already painted about 3 years ago. They will get the update treatment once I have enough of my new models painted.
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For the 2014 Independent Character’s Hobby Progress Challenge (HPC) I’m slowly working on my new Tyranids. I will eventually go back and repaint all of my old Tyranids too, but I have enough in front of me to last the whole year. This year’s HPC uses a 1K Zone Mortalis list for the February through June installation and 1K of expansion for July through November.
After I posted up Squad Sariel last week, I got quite a few questions about oil washes. What were they? Why use them? How are they used? Hopefully this tutorial can answer those questions as well as give a few more tips on how to get the best results from them.
